The Ultimate Guide to Hanok Guesthouses

If you want to experience the soul of traditional Korea, you should skip the modern hotels in Gangnam and book at least one or two nights in a Hanok guesthouse. Hanoks are traditional Korean houses, instantly recognizable by their sweeping tiled roofs, exposed wooden beams, and quiet inner courtyards.

What to Expect: The Ondol Floor

The most shocking adjustment for Western tourists staying in a traditional Hanok is the lack of a bed. You will be sleeping on the floor. However, this is significantly more comfortable than it sounds thanks to the Ondol system.

Ondol is an ancient under-floor heating system (historically smoke from wood fires, now heated water pipes). In the brutal winter, sleeping on a warm, thick "Yo" (cotton mattress) directly on a hot wooden floor is incredibly therapeutic and comfortable. You will be provided with thick blankets (Ibul) and a small, often buckwheat-filled pillow.

The Pros and Cons

• Pros: Unmatched aesthetic beauty and historical immersion. Most are located in Bukchon or Seochon, meaning you wake up directly next to the grand palaces. Many hosts will serve you a traditional Korean breakfast in the morning and offer tea ceremonies in the courtyard.
• Cons: Sound insulation is virtually non-existent. The walls are made of paper and thin wood. If other guests are talking loudly, you will hear them. Bathrooms are also often incredibly small, and in some highly traditional or budget Hanoks, they may be shared.

Where to Book

The highest concentration of luxury, modernized Hanoks (featuring private bathrooms, espresso machines, and high-end bedding while retaining the traditional exterior) is situated in Bukchon Hanok Village. For a massive, dedicated cultural village experience outside of Seoul, taking the KTX train to Jeonju Hanok Village is highly recommended, as the entire city center consists of hundreds of preserved traditional homes.

Hanok Etiquette

You must absolutely remove your shoes upon entering the outer gate or onto the wooden veranda (Maru). Furthermore, because the walls are literally made of mulberry paper (Hanji), you must maintain hushed voices after 9 PM. Treat the space like a quiet luxury spa rather than a party hostel.